Guided Trips: $10,000 to $20,500

Whether you choose to go with a western guide service or an Indonesian one, be sure to do your research. What is the guide-to-climber ratio? Do they have a solid history of successful expeditions? What are their connections like in Indonesia and how can they guarantee permits, access, and helicopter availability? Ask for names of former clients, and contact them for their opinions. Finally, don’t consider going to Carstensz without trip cancellation insurance, and be sure to schedule extra time at the end of your trip to allow for any unforeseen circumstances.

American, European, and Australian guide services: $16,000 to $20,500

Starting from Manado, Jakarta, or Bali, the price for these expeditions includes all domestic travel in Indonesia. The companies guarantee legal access to the mountain and will take care of all permits and fees. Many of these guide services try to solve the access problem by using helicopters, landing at or near base camp at the beautiful Zebra Wall (approx. 12,450 feet). Of course, permits are needed for helicopter access as well; you are not allowed to fly in Freeport Mine air space; and availability of helicopters is often a serious issue. Finally, weather plays an important role in helicopter transportation, so you should be prepared to wait a week or more, if things go wrong.

Indonesian guide services: $10,500 to $15,000

Indonesian guide services claim they have better relationships with government and local officials, Freeport Company officials, and tribal dignitaries, and are therefore better able to guarantee access to the mountain. Each company has a different approach, both literally and figuratively. Trips can range from two to four weeks, and offer a variety of trekking approaches as well as helicopter options. Due to the high cost of the helicopters, most companies require a group of at least six climbers before committing to this type of trip. Dani porters are hired for trekking trips, although you will be carrying your personal gear yourself.

Popular Routes

The rock climbing on Carstensz Pyramid is the most technically difficult of all the Seven Summits. There are three established routes on Carstensz: the Normal route (Harrer’s Route, named for first ascent party), the East Ridge, and the American Direct. The latter two are more difficult routes with loose rock, and are rarely climbed. Each of these climbs can be done in one long day.

From base camp (at 12,800 feet), the Normal Route follows a series of gullies up the north face of the mountain. Your first challenge is 1,600 feet of relatively easy 3rd and 4th class scrambling over coarse limestone to the summit ridge. From there, Carstensz Pyramidyou encounter a number of gaps in the rock. Some are narrow enough to jump (with a belay), but a few require a rappel followed by jumaring the opposite side on fixed ropes. (Jumars are ascending tools that slide up and then clamp on the rope.) The most difficult chasm is over 60 feet deep, and while the rappel isn’t difficult, jumaring the overhanging opposite side is very strenuous (particularly at 14,800 feet). Your guide can give you a top rope, for your protection. A few companies use a Tyrolean traverse – a special technique that allows climbers to traverse on ropes suspended across the gap and anchored on each side.

There’s very little loose rock on the Normal Route, and the coarse limestone offers decent friction even when wet. There are a few steep sections of moderate rock climbing (up to 5.8), and you’ll be climbing in your leather alpine boots. There are fixed ropes on these sections, so you can choose to climb or jumar. The rock is so abrasive that many climbers wear leather gloves on the non-technical sections, to protect their hands.

Count on a strenuous summit day, lasting 12 to 18 hours. Your descent will be a long series of rappels and then the hike back to base camp, usually in the rain.

Tips, Gratuities, And Emergency Funds: $500 to $1,000

It’s a good idea to bring extra cash with you to cover tips and unexpected expenses. Because of the uncertainties surrounding access (helicopter availability, in particular), there have been instances of clients running out of time and having to leave the trip early.

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