Located 4 degrees south of the equator in the Papua province of Indonesia, Carstensz Pyramid (elevation 16,023 feet) is the highest point on the Oceanic continent and one of the most remote of the Seven Summits. Papua is in the western half of New Guinea and the peak is part of the Lorenze National Park. In 1623, Dutch explorer Jan Carstensz was the first European to discover the mountain, known locally as Puncak Jaya, or “Victorious Peak.” The area is so remote that the indigenous Dani people had almost no contact with the outside world until missionary Lloyd van Stone parachuted into their lives in 1954. Today, the Dani welcome tourists to certain villages, but have retained much of their aboriginal culture and lifestyle.
If you decide to climb Carstensz Pyramid, you will have to cope with three climates: meteorological, cultural, and political. The peak towers above dense tropical rainforest in the central highlands of New Guinea, and you can expect everything from heat and humidity in the villages to heavy rain, snow, and cold winds on the mountain. However, the weather is the least of your problems.
Cultural issues arise when groups attempt to trek through villages and territory of the Dani people without prior permission. Arrangements, donations, and, most important, a letter of recommendation and support from a tribal leader are required.
The area is so politically volatile that Indonesia actually closed the peak to climbers from 1995 to 2005. The Free Papua movement (Organisasi Papua Merdeka, or OPM) is a guerilla group that has been fighting for independence from Indonesia for over 30 years. Consequently, you will encounter many security checkpoints where you will be asked to show permits, passports, and many other complicated forms. (See Fees and Permits, below.) A number of climbing groups have been turned back in recent years, forbidden to even trek to base camp.
The Freeport Company of Indonesia owns the largest open pit gold and copper mine in the world, and no longer allows climbers to use their access roads near Carstensz without special permission.
In other words, access to the peak is the primary obstacle to summit success, and is such a serious concern that some American guide companies have temporarily suspended trips to Carstensz completely, rather than risk their clients’ time, money, and safety.
Gear And Clothing
Temperatures can range between 45°F and 85°F in highland areas, and from 28°F to 60°F on the mountain. On the summit, you may even encounter snow, and during your climb, you will almost certainly encounter rain. You will receive a gear and equipment list from your guide company, and you should follow it closely. High altitude expedition gear isn’t needed, but good quality leather alpine boots with rigid soles are required for technical climbing and you’ll want good trekking shoes for the approach. Layering is the key strategy for this expedition, along with methods to stay dry under remarkably wet conditions. Keep gear to a minimum since you will probably be carrying much of it yourself.
